Natale 2016 – Degustazione romanzata di un Valpolicella D.O.C. del 2000 (Cantine Pasqua)

« Per il pranzo di Natale, passa da casa a scegliere il vino. » disse mia madre al telefono.

Nel ripostiglio dell’appartamento dove abita vi sono alcune bottiglie superstiti ad un paio di generazioni di onesti bevitori. Quelle sopravvissute a mio nonno sono per la maggior parte vini piemontesi che, ahimè, conservano un valore affettivo, ma probabilmente esauriscono con quello la loro ragione ad esistere. Se fossero state conservate nei modi e nei luoghi opportuni, oggi potrei affermare di possedere un piccolo tesoro perché un buon barolo, anche a distanza di cinquant’anni, ha sempre qualcosa da raccontare. Ma il ripostiglio di casa non è una cantina e le escursioni termiche, intervenute in decenni di avvicendamenti stagionali, pregiudicano l’evoluzione del vino condannandolo ad un’impietosa e irreversibile ossidazione.

La scelta poteva dunque ricadere solo sulle bottiglie acquistate da mio padre. Queste, pur avendo superato la pubertà, godevano del favore di mia madre secondo la quale, quando si tratti di vino, “non tutto è perduto”. Nata e cresciuta nello stato di necessità in cui il secondo conflitto mondiale aveva costretto la maggior parte delle famiglie italiane, si era connaturata in lei la convinzione che nulla dovesse essere sprecato a meno che non manifestasse evidenti inclinazioni acetiche. Ma anche in quel caso, esistevano alternativi e insospettabili scopi domestici per utilizzare un vino divenuto ormai imbevibile.

Escluse le bottiglie di origine ignota e quelle che, per motivi legati alla normativa sull’etichettatura, non erano obbligate a riportare l’anno della vendemmia, restava un Rosso della Valpolicella del 2000 ed un bottiglio… ehm, chiedo scusa, volevo dire una magnum di Rosso di Montepulciano della stessa annata. Per esigenze di natura sia pratica che estetica legate alla ricorrenza, il Valpolicella ebbe la meglio sul Montepulciano.

Ad ogni modo, non ero affatto entusiasta della scelta. Tra gli insegnamenti ricevuti durante il corso da sommelier vige l’assioma secondo cui il vino, essendo materia viva, è soggetto ad una naturale evoluzione e, dunque, può essere consumato entro un lasso di tempo piuttosto preciso senza incorrere nel rischio di una sostanziale alterazione delle sue qualità: taluni vini bianchi, beverini e con poca struttura, ad esempio, raramente conservano la propria freschezza ed esuberanza oltre i due anni; i vini rossi, invece, sono generalmente più idonei a sopportare il trascorrere del tempo e, anzi, per alcune qualità è persino auspicabile un periodo ulteriore di affinamento in bottiglia, in aggiunta a quello effettuato dalla cantina produttrice. Tanto premesso, restava il fatto che sedici anni d’attesa sarebbero comunque stati troppi anche per un Valpolicella conservato in cantina a temperatura e umidità controllate. Figuriamoci nel ripostiglio di un appartamento!

Poco prima del pranzo mi accinsi a stappare la bottiglia con pregiudizievole riluttanza in quanto, pensavo, nella migliore delle ipotesi il turacciolo si sarebbe spezzato durante l’estrazione, obbligandomi a studiare qualche soluzione poco ortodossa per averne la meglio. Inoltre, tale circostanza mi avrebbe di certo esposto al ludibrio familiare, qualora pezzetti di sughero fossero malauguratamente precipitati nel vino.

Inserito il verme del cavatappi in profondità, ponendo sempre la massima attenzione affinché non fuoriuscisse dall’estremità opposta, feci delicatamente leva esercitando una pressione uniforme. Dopo una prima svogliata resistenza, come se la bottiglia rivendicasse il diritto esclusivo alla proprietà sul suo contenuto, il turacciolo scivolò via con un cauto e sonnacchioso schiocco nel finale, retaggio d’una nobiltà d’origine che l’attesa non era riuscita a fiaccare. Lo avvicinai al naso per valutare la presenza di eventuali difetti, sempre memore del precetto contadino: “se il tappo sa di vino, difficilmente il vino saprà di tappo”, dovendo infine constatare l’infondatezza della mia diffidenza.

A questo punto, ignoro quanta parte delle valutazioni successive sia stata dettata da trasporto emotivo e quanta dalle effettive competenze maturate in due anni di accanite degustazioni, più o meno guidate. Fatto sta che l’esercizio di analisi sensoriale, intrapreso con assiduità da quando mi ero avvicinato professionalmente al mondo del vino, fu reso più intenso dall’emozione ricevuta in quella particolare circostanza, tanto da volerlo rendere indelebile fissandone le impressioni sulla carta.

Il testo didattico intitolato “Il vino italiano – Panorama vitivinicolo attraverso le denominazioni di origine” recita a proposito di quella specifica tipologia:

I vini della Valpolicella sono di colore rosso rubino vivace, con profumi vinosi e fragranti di fiori rossi ed amarene, di media struttura, decisamente freschi e di modesta tannicità, in genere da bersi giovani. Il Valpolicella superiore è un vino più strutturato e morbido, meno fresco ma con percezioni pseudo caloriche decisamente più percettibili.

Su questo inciso pedissequamente riportato e difficilmente confutabile, bisogna effettuare almeno una precisazione: il disciplinare di produzione, documento che stabilisce caratteristiche e metodi produttivi affinché un vino possa fregiarsi della denominazione d’origine, è stato aggiornato nel 2010 e lo stesso era già stato modificato nel 2003, perciò i criteri produttivi e le percentuali in uvaggio del Valpolicella del 2000 potrebbero essere diversi da quelli cui fa riferimento il manuale delle denominazioni.

Tanto premesso, quando versai il vino nel bicchiere iniziò l’avventura sensoriale ed emozionale che il sommelier, così come ogni altro appassionato, deve sperimentare direttamente all’apertura di ogni bottiglia e che nessun libro sarà mai in grado di trasmettere. Infatti, l’epoca suggerita per il consumo di un Valpolicella D.O.C. varia da uno a tre anni, come a dire che quella tipologia di vino non possieda le caratteristiche per affrontare un lungo affinamento in bottiglia, superando indenne il trascorrere dei lustri. Ma il vino è vivo e, se non è definitivamente spirato, sarà sempre in grado di raccontare una storia, magari di dura lotta per resistere ad una cattiva conservazione, ma sempre di storia si tratterà per chi avrà la voglia e la curiosità di starla ad ascoltare.

Il liquido scivolò sul vetro con misurato entusiasmo, suggerendo una consistenza dalla quale sembrava quasi emergere una nuova vitalità dopo tutti quegli anni di letargo immeritato. Non trovai particelle in sospensione che intaccassero la limpidità del vino, la quale rifletteva dignitosa e vivida la cromaticità ancora interessante di un rosso granato. Le sfumature dell’unghia, la parte più sottile del liquido che si viene a formare una volta inclinato il bicchiere, stavano invece già virando verso un eloquente aranciato. Facendo compiere al calice qualche rotazione, però, la consistenza si rivelò ben più energica di quanto potessi aspettarmi e mi indusse a condividere il pensiero di mia madre sulla ragionevolezza del non giudicare un vino prima di averlo assaggiato.

Al naso l’esperienza emotiva si fece più pungente, drammatica, quasi mistica, catapultandomi in un susseguirsi di immagini evocative mano a mano che mi sforzavo di trovare una precisa identità ai profumi inspirati. L’intensità degli aromi doveva essersi affievolita, ma il bouquet era armonico, equilibrato nella sua complessità evolutiva e chiaramente “fine”, come la tecnica di analisi sensoriale definisce la qualità olfattiva di buon livello. Non fu semplice intercettare le diverse sfumature odorose che il trascorrere del tempo aveva amalgamato e attutito, ma con diverse insufflazioni, aspettando lo schiudersi dei profumi, venni ampiamente ripagato della mia pazienza.

Il primo ricordo scaturì dal limpido sentore di ciliegia: non propriamente candita, ma più sotto spirito – come quelle che usava fare mio padre – anche se in questo caso l’aggressività dell’alcol era assente, per cui restava soltanto la dolcezza del frutto. Mi sovvenne l’assaggio, forse un po’ prematuro, in una sera d’estate: la ciliegia, invitante, brillava alla luce della lampada del terrazzo mentre mio padre me la tendeva con sguardo di chi la sa lunga. Lucida, appena estratta dal suo lago rosso fuoco, il profumo mi aveva già incuriosito e sedotto perché non assomigliava ad alcunché di conosciuto, trasfigurato com’era dalla morbidezza ed esoticità dell’alcol. Poi, in bocca, la vera e propria esplosione di potenza calorica che le papille vergini di un adolescente non erano in grado di gestire. Tra la scelta di espellere e quella d’inghiottire vinse la seconda, ma a parte il pizzicore sulla lingua, il bruciore nello stomaco e le risate di mio padre, lentamente emerse il sapore composito e cremoso della ciliegia sotto spirito.

Esplorando alla ricerca di altre nuance odorose, il vino proseguì regalandomi ulteriori memorie riconducibili sempre al periodo della mia fanciullezza: i profumi della frutta candita ed essiccata di papaya e albicocca portata in dono da mio padre di ritorno dai suoi approdi ad Istanbul, quelli dei potpourri di rosa e cannella nelle stanze della nonna e, infine, il ricordo vagamente balsamico dell’anisette consumato d’inverno nei bar di paese.

Mi rendo conto che la cosa possa apparire eccessiva, ma per un istante la mente vagò fuori dal tempo in una realtà nella quale i confini del prima e del dopo erano stati soppressi. Non mi capacitavo di come un vino potesse regalare simili esperienze di profonda intimità, mentre indugiavo sulla possibilità irrazionale che si fosse creato un legame atavico tra me e quel liquido rosso granato confinato in un calice: non più bevanda o genere voluttuario privo di un’anima, ma grazie ad un meraviglioso incantesimo quel vino si era tramutato in un indovino capace di leggere nel passato di uno sconosciuto.

In quel momento appresi quanta verità celassero le parole dei degustatori più esperti: “il vino è vivo… il vino ha un’anima”. C’era un’ottima dose di suggestione nel mio sentire, qualche rigurgito di letture alchemiche e quel sottile confine tra entusiasmo e malinconia legato ai giorni di festa era stato varcato più volte in entrambe le direzioni, ma l’esperienza fu davvero emozionante, schiudendomi le porte alla consapevolezza di un’unione intellettuale tra uomo e vino o, parafrasando Ugo Foscolo, di “corrispondenza d’amorosi sensi”. Ciò in quanto era emerso l’aspetto spirituale della degustazione: sebbene fosse universalmente condivisibile la presenza di sentori di ciliegia o rosa, solo in me avevano scatenato quei ricordi, mentre in altri avrebbero aperto finestre su sensazioni scaturite da vissuti diversi.

Superato l’impatto olfattivo, assaggiai d’impeto il contenuto del bicchiere. In bocca il vino era come un maratoneta agli ultimi cento metri prima del traguardo: stanco, ma felice e determinato a dare il meglio di sé sino alla fine. I muscoli, contratti allo spasimo, tenuti avvinti dalla volontà di dimostrare ancora una volta la propria caparbia determinazione, guizzavano con il semplice equilibrio di colui che l’esercizio ha forgiato per resistere. Le sensazioni gustative si erano certamente attenuate, eppure nel complesso riflettevano la struttura armonica dell’atleta: durezze smussate dal tempo di tannini polimerizzati, soffice acidità e sapidità velata, ma anche morbidezze ridimensionate nella loro primitiva baldanza, con sensazione alcolica mitigata e glicerina parzialmente precipitata. Ciò nonostante, il sorso si rivelò estremamente interessante proprio perché la mancata predominanza di una qualsiasi caratteristica, offriva la limpida piacevolezza del ponderato equilibrio gustativo tra struttura, intensità e persistenza, mentre grazie alla via retronasale recuperavo parte delle note fruttate e speziate dell’esperienza olfattiva.

Col senno del poi mi sono interrogato sulla longevità di quel vino, quale sorte gli sarebbe toccata se fosse stato correttamente conservato in cantina e cosa avrei percepito se lo avessi aperto cinque o dieci anni prima. Ma questo è il bello di stappare una bottiglia dimenticata: da una parte il rischio della scoperta di averne consegnato il contenuto alla malevola ossidazione, dall’altra l’emozione di poter evocare una storia che rimarrà nella propria memoria unica e indelebile.

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