Non solo vini al Podere Scurtarola. Incontro con Pierpaolo Lorieri

Visitando Siena con mia moglie, m’imbatto nell’Enoteca Nazionale Italiana. Una locandina promozionale invita a “Il Giro d’Italia”: degustazione di tre calici con vini provenienti da diverse regioni. Esperienza interessante, condotta con affabile professionalità dalla sommelier in servizio e conclusasi con lo scambio di alcune informazioni di circostanza dovute alla nostra condizione di turisti. Parliamo di cantine del levante ligure (nostra zona di provenienza), viticoltura eroica, D.O.C. Cinque Terre e Colli di Luni, finché la conversazione scivola su un’azienda vitivinicola della vicina Toscana: Podere Scurtarola. Vengo a sapere che è gestita da una persona gentile, competente e, cosa tradizionalmente insolita per le nostre parti, ospitale. Il suo nome è Paolo Lorieri.

Non riuscendo ad organizzare immediatamente un incontro, trascorrono alcuni mesi. La prima impressione ricevuta al telefono è comunque accattivante: poche battute, ma sufficienti per capire trattarsi di persona ironica e di compagnia; ha scelto di non proporsi al pubblico attraverso i classici canali di comunicazione e, di solito, la sua struttura non è aperta al pubblico, almeno nell’accezione più comune e promozionale del termine; sembra serafico nella consapevolezza della sua politica aziendale che non prevede di inseguire il consumatore ad ogni costo o le mode enologiche del mercato. Rimango drammaticamente incuriosito e determinato a conoscerlo.

Quando riesco a concordare una data per la visita in cantina, la mia intenzione è quella di sfruttare il tempo a disposizione realizzando una breve intervista per far emergere gli aspetti peculiari della sua strategia: cosa lo abbia spinto a produrre vino, i vitigni impiegati, le tecniche di cantina, come si comporti con i clienti, i suoi mercati di sbocco, per quale tipo di comunicazione pubblicitaria abbia optato e altre domande classiche per curiosi del settore. Magari corredando il tutto con qualche scatto didascalico.

Se c’è una cosa che la vita mi ha insegnato, è quella di programmare meticolosamente ogni attività con la consapevolezza della potenziale inutilità di tanta cura. La seconda lezione è, giocoforza, l’improvvisazione.

La giornata prescelta si rivela una delle più uggiose e umide di fine febbraio. Il cielo è asfaltato di nubi, mentre il parabrezza è offuscato da una pioggia finissima e incostante. Svanisce così la speranza di realizzare foto decenti.

Sono in un ritardo vergognoso. Decido di cambiare itinerario all’ultimo momento, preferendo l’autostrada alla statale, pur consapevole che la prima impressione lasciata a Paolo sarà quella di una persona poco puntuale. A metà tragitto la pioggia cessa e, all’orizzonte, si forma un’accecante lama di luce a sancire il confine tra cielo e mare, mentre le Alpi Apuane osservano silenziose, arcaiche spettatrici avvezze a simili prodigi.

Mi fermo nel luogo convenuto per ricevere informazioni più precise su come raggiungere la cantina. Durante la precedente telefonata per confermare l’appuntamento, ero stato redarguito a non prendere iniziative personali, perché perdersi nell’entroterra massese sembrava fosse cosa curiosamente frequente. Nonostante le precise indicazioni del padrone di casa, devo chiedere informazioni ad un paio di pittoreschi indigeni i quali mi suggeriscono di eseguire una curva a V per immettermi in una stretta via di campagna. Durante la manovra lascio qualcosa dell’auto lungo il muretto ad angolo del crocicchio. Brivido di terrore, ma il ritardo non mi permette di fermarmi a controllare eventuali conseguenze meccaniche. Incrocio le dita e confido di non doverle scoprire strada facendo.

Una volta imboccata Via dell’Uva non c’è possibilità di perdersi! Man mano che si sale la natura prende il sopravvento, obliando le strade trafficate e il rumore della città, mentre lo sguardo rimane rapito dal paesaggio circostante intriso di umano e divino: la collina digrada verso l’agro massese, con i suoi campi, le sue abitazioni e la zona industriale, incastonati tra la maestà delle Alpi Apuane, con le celeberrime cave di marmo, e il mare infinito che all’orizzonte trascende il cielo.

Andando a visitare un’azienda vitivinicola con annessa cantina sembra quasi obbligatorio parlare di vini, ma quando si viene accolti da un padrone di casa capace di instaurare subito un rapporto di gioviale professionalità, cadono tutte le convenzioni e gli stereotipi delle aspettative precedenti all’incontro col produttore.

La prima cosa che colpisce la vista, oltre alla figura del titolare col suo cappello nero a falda larga a conferirgli quel non so ché di misterioso, tra un Sean Connery e un Indiana Jones, è il panorama spettacolare, offerto dalla vertiginosa altezza raggiunta in una manciata di chilometri, di vigne che si susseguono lungo pendii scoscesi e difficilmente praticabili.

Mentre mostra orgoglioso le sue viti, Pierpaolo Lorieri condivide la propria visione dell’esistenza: in principio era il Caos e il caos tuttora regna. Venutasi a creare una connotazione piuttosto negativa della parola, l’uomo moderno ne ha addolcito il suono tramutandolo in “entropia” ed esorcizzato la complessità del disordine grazie ai propri schemi mentali. Ma per quanto ci si possa sforzare di gestire ogni aspetto della nostra vita, non avremo mai il pieno controllo di tutte le variabili. Talvolta siamo così protesi a piegare la Natura ai nostri desideri da non renderci conto che seguendo le sue semplici evidenze oggettive, produrremmo meno danni sfruttando meglio le nostre e le sue risorse.

Perciò, per quale motivo dannarsi ad ottenere risultati diversi da quelli perseguibili in modo più semplice e naturale? Pierpaolo ricorda i contadini di un tempo: soprattutto il nonno, quotidianamente dedito a curare le sue terre, giustificando le costanti attenzioni dell’avo col fatto che i motivi di distrazione all’epoca fossero davvero pochi. « Poveretto, cosa volevi che facesse tutto il giorno… o veniva in vigna o doveva stare a casa con mia nonna… e allora giù a legare tralci, sostituire pali, potare, sfalciare… ».

Oggi le viti hanno la libertà che contraddistingue il sentire e l’azione del nuovo proprietario. « Se la Natura le ha fornite di viticci, perché costringerle artificialmente? ». La coerenza di pensiero emana dalle sue piante: il fusto piuttosto basso si regge autonomamente, mentre gli unici supporti offerti sono dei tratti di fil di ferro ai quali i viticci si avviluppano, accompagnando la spontanea direzione del nuovo tralcio. Perciò non esiste un ordine o uno schema ripetuto all’infinito e le viti, soprattutto in questo periodo dell’anno, spoglie da tempo della loro chioma smeraldina, « assomigliano a donne con lunghi capelli sciolti scompigliati dal vento ».

Caos, libertà, ma anche tanta cultura, curiosità e un’innata propensione alla ricerca per migliorare la salute dei suoi vigneti, accuditi anche grazie ad eccellenti collaborazioni accademiche. Come quella col Professor Fregoni, assieme al quale si sperimentano tecniche di potatura contro il mal dell’esca. Ovviamente assecondando le dinamiche biologiche delle piante, nell’ottica che viti sane producano uve migliori e con quelle, di pari passo, si possa ottenere un vino di carattere e territorialità. Sempre secondo natura. E proprio per tener fede al suo obiettivo, Paolo non teme di effettuare scelte imprenditoriali coraggiose come evitare di imbottigliare in quelle annate che, per condizione climatiche, non abbiano permesso alle uve di raggiungere livelli qualitativi adeguati ai suoi standard di produzione. Il compito può apparire meno gravoso quando la professionalità e l’onestà di condotta gli abbiano intessuto attorno una rete di clienti e amici fedeli che acquistino anche il prodotto sfuso, sempre lieti di poter gustare il sincero vino delle Apuane. In realtà, solo la dedizione alla terra e la passione per l’arte di fare vino possono essere di sostegno mentre si affrontano le complesse dinamiche alle quali un piccolo produttore è costretto a soggiacere.

La scelta di non legare le viti è, come si suol dire, la punta dell’iceberg perché al Podere Scurtarola non si usano concimi né trattamenti chimici, non si irriga né si impiegano mezzi meccanici e la potatura, sia secca che verde, è effettuata secondo ponderata necessità. Osservando l’impressionante pendenza del terreno, mi rendo conto che tante scelte di conduzione agronomica possano sembrare imposte dall’orografia, ma non di meno il pensiero insegue facili parallelismi con le pratiche colturali delle mie radici liguri, dove si è abituati a parlare di “viticoltura eroica” talvolta con rassegnazione, ma più spesso con orgoglio.

Essendo venuto a conoscenza di queste informazioni, mi lascio influenzare dai miei schemi mentali, dimentico del fatto che a Pierpaolo le categorie stiano strette. Gli chiedo ingenuamente: « Ma quindi lei è in biologico o biodinamico? ». Sospira, un po’ infastidito, ma risponde sorridendo: « Sono Diodinamico! – e subito puntualizza – Ho fatto richiesta di certificazione, ma sono sicuro che ci vorrà del tempo. »

A conferma delle sue parole mi mostra la zona di vinificazione dove campeggiano tini di fermentazione in acciaio accanto a quelli in legno, quasi all’aperto. Ci sono anche alcune vasche refrigerate acquistate per prassi, ma dismesse quasi subito perché il vino deve rispecchiare la sua filosofia che non prevede compromessi né fermentazioni a temperature controllate.

Spilla un bicchiere di bianco per offrirmi un primo approccio col suo prodotto, estraendolo da una botte in cui la frenesia creativa non si è ancora placata.  Il colore è intenso, compatto anche per via di una leggerissima velatura da lieviti e anidride carbonica, mentre il profumo risente del mancato approdo alla bottiglia, pur regalando piacevole freschezza e accattivante dinamismo. Sarebbe necessario qualche minuto perché il bouquet possa schiudersi a dovere, ma non c’è tempo per assecondare la prassi della degustazione. Si tratta dell’ultima vendemmia, il vino sta ancora evolvendo, e pare che i laboriosi saccharomyces non abbiano del tutto esaurito la loro preziosa forza vitale. Una pungenza cremosa avvolge il palato, solleticando il cavo orale e lasciando alternativamente spazio alle sensazioni di freschezza (acidità) e calore (alcolicità). La causa è da ricercarsi nel proseguo dell’attività dei lieviti i quali, nel loro vivace metabolismo, producono etanolo e anidride carbonica aggredendo il glucosio. Infatti, in punta di lingua, si può ancora percepire un labile residuo zuccherino.

Paolo mi obbliga a contravvenire alla consolidata prassi di consumare tutto il contenuto del mio bicchiere: vuoi per rispetto degli sforzi congiunti della vite, del vignaiolo e del cantiniere, vuoi per patologica ingordigia, ho sempre deprecato chi sacrificava il vino allo spitton (altrimenti detto crachoir o, più italianamente, sputacchiera) e considerato un valore aggiunto il pacato entusiasmo di una degustazione, quale gentile effetto collaterale. Ma come contraddire il padrone di casa quando ti inviti a restituire alla terra ciò che la Terra ha prodotto, al fine di chiudere “il cerchio della vite”?

La cantina è ben organizzata, costituita da un doppio locale nel quale avviene l’affinamento in legno di varie dimensioni, nella costante ricerca delle migliori condizioni affinché il vino trasudi la propria naturale individualità. Guai a pensare, però, che qualche aspetto sia affidato al puro caso: i muri sono letteralmente tappezzati di encomi, riconoscimenti e attestazioni, a dimostrare che i  risultati raggiunti sono tutto fuorché felici coincidenze di un eccentrico fortunato.

Per onor di cronaca devo ammettere di non aver sperimentato alcun vino imbottigliato. Le mie impressioni si riferiscono ad assaggi spillati direttamente dai caratelli, il cui contenuto ignoro tutt’ora, se non che il millesimo di riferimento fosse il 2015. Mi sono diplomato sommelier, è vero, ma non ho ancora maturato un’esperienza tale da individuare tutti i vitigni impiegati e le rispettive percentuali. Probabilmente avrei potuto giocare d’astuzia facendo riferimento al disciplinare della D.O.C. Candia dei Colli Apuani e azzardare riconoscimenti di Vermentino, Albarola e Trebbiano, ma il rischio di incorrere in una magra figura sarebbe stato molto elevato e, secondariamente, ne sarebbe andata delle mia autostima se avessi ripagato l’onestà di Pierpaolo con un bieco sotterfugio. Anche perché non mi avrebbe dato la soddisfazione di sapere se avessi indovinato o meno la composizione dei suoi vini in quanto, non me ne voglia il Dott. Lorieri, l’impostazione produttiva ricorda un po’ la visione francese secondo la quale la discriminante di una bottiglia è il buon vino in essa contenuto. Al consumatore non deve interessare come sia stato realizzato o quali e quante uve vi abbiano concorso.

Volgo perciò l’attenzione dall’aspetto tecnico-organolettico a quello più squisitamente emozionale, memore di alcune immagini evocative tracciate dagli esperti colleghi dell’AIS. Ci avevano raccomandato di ascoltare il vino per imparare a considerarlo come un essere vivente, come un figlio del territorio, della vite e della dedizione del vignaiolo. Dopo aver assaggiato due esemplari, l’impressione risulta nitida: concordemente all’analisi sensoriale, il primo vino mi era apparso come un giovane esuberante, traboccante vitalità, impetuoso – solo a tratti “oltraggioso” – desideroso di far baldoria e restare alzato fino a tarda notte; l’altro era profondo, intenso, misterioso e meditativo, un tipo riservato – solo a tratti “scontroso” – perché con tanto da dare, voleva essere certo di offrire le sue doti alla persona giusta. Condivido queste mie impressioni con Paolo, con certa apprensione perché, per l’appunto, sono solo impressioni e, per definizione, altamente soggettive. Mi concede un assenso bonario, forse per non mortificare il mio palese entusiasmo, e quindi mi spiega che l’uvaggio delle due botti è molto simile, perciò la sostanziale differenza che percepisco è in buona parte frutto dei diversi lieviti. Facendo analizzare la propria cantina, infatti, ha rinvenuto cinque ceppi di lieviti autoctoni responsabili sia delle fermentazioni spontanee, in piena coerenza con la scelta di intervenire il meno possibile nel processo produttivo, sia delle diverse personalità che contraddistinguono i vini.

Prima di lasciare Podere Scurtarola, chiedo al mio ospite di illuminarmi su una meravigliosa stravaganza di cui ho letto nel sito aziendale. Tra un bicchiere e l’altro, poiché le migliori intuizioni si manifestano a tavola, s’insinua l’idea di sfruttare le qualità del caratteristico materiale locale, il marmo, per l’affinamento dei vini. Il tutto nasce quasi per gioco con l’amico Stefano Grassi, titolare della Cava Capraia sita sul versante massese della Alpi Apuane, ma trova terreno fertile nella curiosità e voglia di sperimentare di Paolo. Dopo un rapido tira e molla sulle caratteristiche del contenitore, poiché non doveva essere una copia delle vasche squadrate per la stagionatura del vicino lardo di Colonnata, si raggiunge persino il compromesso estetico: Stefano afferma di possedere una grande fioriera inutilizzata, la cui forma cilindrica poteva ricordare quella di una botte. Tra il dire e il fare, in questo caso, il passo è stato breve e oggi la “Cantina di marmo” è una realtà esclusiva di territorialità estrema, dove i prodotti più tipici della zona sono armonizzati col materiale che ha fatto conoscere la provincia di Massa-Carrara in tutto il mondo.

Grazie ad un fuoristrada, i fortunati avventori vengono condotti all’entrata della cantina scavata nella montagna per assistere alla rimozione del pesante blocco marmoreo che ne ostruisce l’accesso, un po’ come nell’avventura di Aladino. Quindi ci si immerge in un mondo surreale dal fascino rude, ma nel contempo fiabesco, procedendo alla scoperta dei locali sottratti alla cava, da cui si estraeva il “fior di pesco” già caro a Michelangelo,  dove il vino, accolto e plasmato da braccia di marmo, genera rustica assonanza con i succulenti abbinamenti gastronomici tradizionali di focaccia e lardo.

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